Castle Hill, Street Fairs and the Baths

The next few days we continue mostly on foot but also begin to use their wonderful public transportation. Strolling across the Chain Bridge, we go up the funicular to Castle Hill only to stay long enough to have a non-descript bite to eat and look back at the amazing Parliament Building. We then wander down the back side of the hill until we reach Attlia Ut. There we find a smokey pizza joint with red and black modern decor that replenishes the calories burned by our quick steps trying to ward off the chill in the air.

It is in these wandering through residential streets that we really begin to appreciate the"clues" - much like a scavenger hunt - on how the neighborhoods and streets are interconnected for the pedestrian. After all, this is a very old city and common pathways were linked together long before the auto exerted its presence. Beautiful cascading steps suddenly appear to take us from one block to the next.

Under the Soviet rule, few cars were in the hands of individuals. That has now changed and the rules and the hierarchy are being sorted out between auto, bicycles and pedestrians as to who gets what part of the road. Some sort of social pact allows the car to encroach on the walker's space narrowing it to a few feet while in other areas its presence is refused and instead space is dedicated to a calmer demeanor. Alan soaks this all up as he thinks about what can be applied to communities willing to embrace a more walkable culture. I watch as he retreats into measuring the width of a sidewalk or lane and wonder why he doesn't go into sensory overload keeping track of all the details. But he is like a kid in a candy store taking it all in.

The next day we take the underground out to Andrássy Ut only to find that this major boulevard is closed for the day to car traffic for a street fair celebrating, what else . . . but the bicycle! Craft booths and a stage with music are rolled in.

Coffee is again first on our agenda and we find the classic Muvész Kávéház with its 19th century elegant interiors for indulgence. This is a city that Alan describes as "has great bones". Beautiful large blocks of buildings from the 1800's, while in need of repair, are rich in their history. It reminds Alan of London during the 1960's and '70's before its major redevelopment spurt.

I enjoy the greeness. The people here love their public squares, parks and tree-lined streets. While indulging at a chocolate shop, we meet a Canadian real estate developer who believes Budapest is one of the best real estate values still in Europe.

Riding the M-1 line, we see how easily the mass transit acts as a glue allowing residents to commute throughout the city. I love the ease of the wayfinding. It is brilliant in its simplicity. A rudimentary system of dots and arrows always let me know where I am, what direction I am traveling in and what I can expect next. Perfect for confidence in exploring a new city.

High on my list is to spend a few hours soaking in the public thermal Széchenyi Baths in the middle of the City Park. We head out there on a chilly day and walk through Heroes Square. After wandering through the park, we see our destination . . . the big yellow copper-domed building. Soon we find ourselves laughing among jets, bubbles, waves, waterfalls and whirlpools. Our tired legs are revived and I am convinced I can look further over my shoulder as my muscles relax in the hot mineralized waters. Alan lets the fountain pound his neck getting a powerful massage. And we both laugh as the circular motion of a whirlpool whips us around the perimeter, buoyant both in body and spirit.

Our stay in Budapest is coming to an end. This is Alan's second trip to the city and my first. It has grown on me over the five days. It is a city of rich history, a little tired, a little confused, fashion and retail-oriented and with a vibrancy that feels young in its potential.